The 2018 Alesia chardonnay from Rhys is really lovely, coming in clocked at a cool 12.8 percent octane and offering up a vibrant and generous bouquet of apple, casaba melon, white lilies, a fine base of gently salty soil tones and a discreet foundation of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and beautifully proportioned, with a fine core, lovely soil undertow, zesty acids and excellent balance and grip on the long, complex and very refined finish. This strikes me as fine as any example of Alesia chardonnay I have tasted to date! 2020- 2030.

The 2018 Chardonnay (Anderson Valley), all from Bearwallow, is surprisingly tightly wound, which won’t be an issue in time, but readers should not be looking at this as an easygoing wine for near-term drinking. Bright acids give the orchard fruit, citrus confit and floral notes a good bit of energy. There is a lot to like here. Light tropical accents develop with air, rounding out the finish nicely.